Category Archives: Design

Say I was a Japanese deconstructionist

This was a wedding dress I bought in an op shop last year.  I wanted to explore with students in a design studio I taught some aspects of this dress I felt were particular to special occasionwear such as its weight and volume, as well as the act of dressing; actually getting into the dress and what this entails.  I subsequently unpicked the whole thing with a view to using the fabric but before doing so put it on the mannequin to take a photo.  When I took it off the shapes it made struck me as interesting and so I styled these pictures.  I’ve enjoyed having them up on my wall because of the tension I feel when I work between pragmatic red carpet designing, where I sometimes fear I’m veering dangerously close to knocking off whatever Elie Saab did last, and pursuing a “truer” (what does this mean?) kind of creativity, that is influenced by a more “pure” experimentation, perhaps influenced by the form of the materials themselves, and that is not beholden to western conventions of body conscious design.

Below, a quote from The Cutting Class, Wedding Cliches at Comme des Garcons referring to the Comme des Garcons SS12 collection.

But as ever with Comme des Garçons, the rebellion is in the execution. Where you would normally find carefully hand bound edges and french seams on a wedding gown, there was instead roughly cut necklines leaving exposed slabs of wadding. When giant-sized, voluptuous silken bows were used, they were used in a strangely creepy way, binding the models hands together. When boning was used to give the gowns structure it was not hidden discreetly away beneath layers of fine silk, it was instead made into an exterior cage that seemed to be constructed out of plastic boning and wadding.

And below, my photos of that particular collection which is currently exhibited (in fabulous plastic bubbles of course) at Les Docks, Paris.  The “rebellion in the execution” was further highlighted in this exhibition which has been deliberately paired with another exhibition of Christóbal Balenciaga’s archive, featuring original haute couture pieces as well costume references held by Balenciaga that served as inspiration.

 

The Front Row – Transformations

By far the biggest “transformation” of a dress during the “The Front Row” was of a gold stitched chiffon piece.  This design was based on another created last year for the Fair Fashion Parade.  It was the favourite of the model who assisted me with fittings, and of the audience at the parade, so I included it in the Evergreen exhibition at Object the following month.  (By popular, I have no tangible basis for this, other than it seemed to extract the most “oohs and aahs” and “that’s stunning” style comments from those who saw it.  As I like to create garments that have a popular appeal as well as appeal to my own tastes an inclinations, and as I don’t have a concrete measure such as sales figures go by, I often rely on the “ooh, aah” endorsement to determine future design directions…)

With the original dress in Sydney at the Object exhibition, I set about creating a similar one for The Front Row.  The fabric was dyed in Eucalyptus leaves, with some pieces left in they dyebath an hour or so longer so as to create two different shades.  The dress wasn’t finished in time for the beginning of the exhibition and instead this hank of coffee coloured chiffon hung in the gallery over the first week, “I’m meaning to make that up” I told everyone who wondered at what it was.

Lisa of Couturing saw the potential and agreed to wear the dress based on a photograph of the original, and so I set about getting it done.  The pieces are joined with a gold running stitch, each piece is left much as is, the edges folded back so as to fall in small frills.  A gold running stitch along the folded edges is both functional and decorative.

Image courtesy Couturing

Lisa wore the dress to LMFF Runway 2 with black “bunny ears” by Richard Nylon and a vintage Chanel handbag – I felt in very good company.

Image courtesy Couturing, Dress with Richard Nylon

Image courtesy Couturing, Dress with Gwendolynne Burkin

Image courtesy Couturing, Dress with Toni Maticevski

The dress also found itself in good company prior to the parade, here it is photographed with Richard himself, with designer Gwendolynne Burkin and with Toni Maticevski – legitimation by association.

I had put one day in the middle of the exhibition aside for serious transformation of the collection, and made up an indigo vat following on from a  recent workshop (more about this another time).  The chiffon dress was destined next for Leeyong of Style Wilderness and the City Weekly, who had also elected to wear it before seeing it made.  (She had, mind you, styled the original dress in the Fair@Square parade of which she was the organiser, so was familiar with it).  We agreed, that for her, the dress would be dyed in indigo.  What was particularly lovely though was that Leeyong was keen to try out the indigo process on some of her own clothes, and so came along to Indigo day.  We were able to decide together the twist-dyed effect we would attempt.  Leeyong had had plans of wearing the dress that very same day, but the process was much slower than anticipated, and the drying even more so, and in a cruel twist of fate, the gold thread actually broke down in the dye vat and many panels had to be re-sewn!  Clearly indigo is not the “natural” process I had originally imagined it to be.

Image courtesy Style Wilderness

And so, here is Leeyong at the LMFF Red Carpet Runway Presents Toni Maticevski show.  Note the ominous looking sky.

Leeyong and Phoebe, image courtesy Style Wilderness

And here is Leeyong with Phoebe, aka Lady Melbourne, recognise her dress?  You can read Leeyong’s own story, What a Difference a Dye Makes, about the dress on her blog – cute title!  Cruelly, Melbourne chose this night to unleash some absolutely vile weather, and so not only are photos of the guests at this particular parade scarce, this dress, along with two others of mine worn that night, were returned in a sorry crumpled state, which I actually didn’t mind one bit, because this altered state beyond my control hinted at excellent possibilities for the next transformation…

The Front Row – Day 18 – Quite productive

The Front Row – Last Days

The Front Row has been an absolute blast – I am exhausted but have had so much fun with this exhibition/pop-up studio/residency/blogging project/fashion infiltration!  However with the last parade tonight, and the festival guests about to retire back to wherever it is fashion festival guests come from with “fashion flu” as one PR described it, it’s time to wrap it up.  Come on in to matttHQ this Friday, Saturday and Sunday where I will be working on “the map” (or crime scene, depending on your point of view) to see the full collection in all its worn and re-made glory, and have a chat about fashion, sustainability, dresses, dressmaking and designing.

Level 3, The Nicholas Building, 37 Swanston St, Melbourne

Open 11am – 6pm

The Front Row – Day 13 – Ta da!!

I thought it would be interesting to effect a transformation of the collection created for this exhibition and through small strategic alterations see if I could could create a “new” collection.  You could say it’s representing a change from summer into winter, although with both palettes using cool and warm shades it’s a bit hard to tell which is the summer one and which the winter.  I suppose this is appropriate given we are currently in that confusing fashion state experienced at this time every each year here in Melbourne – Winter collections are arriving in store and this fashion festival is telling to get out and buy them, while outside it’s 30 degrees Celsius…

In any case, the Labour day holiday was spent immersed in a vat of indigo dye, the pastel apricot pieces have been set aside, obligatory Melbourne black added in, and this is the result!

 

The Front Row – Day 1 – And we’re off!

The Front Row project / exhibition / event opened yesterday in mattt‘s spare room.  Kyra Pybus of Pybus PR and Iolanthe Gabrie of Ruby Slipper were my first two “clients”, both picking dresses for The Spirit of the Black Dress launch next Tuesday.  More appointments are scheduled for today, so I’ll have a busy weekend of alterations and sewing.

Peppermint has featured the exhibition on their blog, and plans are underway for a dress for Peppermint writer Leeyong Soo.

Finally, a few casual opening drinks were a lovely way to end the first day.  Now that the manic preparations are done and I have a quiet moment to  sit here in this lovely studio space the realization strikes me that this is going to be a really enjoyable few weeks of intensive sewing, creating, writing and reflecting.

So pop in and say hello.  Open Wednesday – Sunday 11am – 6pm until March 18 at mattt HQ, 3rd floor, Nicholas Building, 37 Swanston Street Melbourne.

Above, pinboard day 1

Above and below, alterations for Kyra and Iolanthe

Oscars Dress

I was very pleased to be shortlisted for Suzy Amis Cameron’s Red Carpet Green Dress competition, now in it’s third year, with the design below.  The competition, a fundraiser for Amis Cameron’s Muse Elementary School uses the ultimate red carpet event – the Oscars to promote environmentally sustainable fashion.  Entrants submit a design for a red carpet dress with the winning design being worn to the 84th Academy Awards this year by – it has just been announced – actress Missi Pyle of The Artist.  The sustainability criteria for this competition is focused around material choice, encouraging the use of organic or green fabrics such as organic cotton, bamboo or hemp.  As the deliberations were long with the result only announced last week, I am sure winner Valentina Delfino and all involved with Red Carpet Green Dress has had an incredibly busy time preparing and I look forward very much to seeing and hearing about her design on Sunday.

EVERGREEN – opening

An interview here with Habitus Living on the Evergreen exhibition.

And below, pictures from the opening night.

From left to right, Holly McQuillan, Julia Knupfer and Georgia McCorkill

The chiffon gown has a tiny fan behind it so it flutters!

Zero waste cutting from Holly McQuillan (left) and amazing knit textures from Julia Knupfer (right).

 

Volunteers needed for LMFF

I am looking for a couple of people (volunteers) interested in helping with “The Front Row”, my L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival Cultural Program exhibition.  This would be ideal for fashion students interested in sustainability and/or eveningwear who’d like to get involved in a fashion festival event.

The things I need help with include:

  • Sewing and adjusting garments before or during the exhibition. (Mostly hand sewing)
  • Minding the exhibition on times when I can’t be there due to teaching commitments, etc
  • Help with installing the work and with opening night.

Click here for a further description of the exhibition.  If you’re interested and in Melbourne before and during LMFF (around 26 Feb 19 March) then please get in touch with me on georgia (at) redcarpetproject.com.au, letting me know what you can do and how much time you can spare.

The Front Row 1

My next project “The Front Row” is inspired by the similarities between the celebrities who walk the red carpet and the fashion people who occupy the front row of the fashion parade.  For an event that is part of the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival Cultural Program I am creating a range of garments that will be worn by people attending various events throughout the festival.  Each garment will be borrowed and I’m hoping to have the pieces worn in different ways on different days by different people.  Sharing clothes is becoming increasingly popular through ideas such as swapping or renting, but I’m interested in fashion designers actively working to facilitate this kind of activity.  I’ll be running and documenting the project from a studio space in the Nicholas Building that is open to the public.  Special occasion dresses generally only get worn once and then sit in a wardrobe so I’m interested in a model of fashion whereby the dresses can be shared, with the designer acting as a moderator and custodian.

I made a gallery of images on flickr while I was contemplating the aesthetics of front row fashion, and how my practice can potentially fit into that.  Anna Wintour of course features prominently as the ultimate front row icon, it’s not that I feel very strongly about her, she just pops up everywhere, in the same way that Karl Lagerfeld has become symbolic of the fashion designer…