Monthly Archives: January 2011

A Dress in Black

I’m thrilled to be taking part in The Spirit of the Black Dress during the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival 2011, 14-20 March 2011.  The Spirit of the Black Dress supports emerging fashion designers showing a comittment to sustainability.  The brief calls for a dress in black that satisfies prescribed criteria relating to sustainability.  The scope of the criteria is quite broad, so I will be intrigued to see the approaches the other designers have taken.  What about my dress? I have recently sourced silk remnants from a number of designers across Melbourne – literally their offcuts that would otherwise be thrown out and I am exploring decorative and innovative ways in which these odd shaped and otherwise impractical pieces can be used.  However, most of these remnants are in white or ivory, so how to make a dress in black??!

I decided to source what I could from around Melbourne and so set about assembling as many silk pieces as I estimated would be required for a dress.

Above is my self devised technique of “design by pinboard!”  You can be begin to see that the dress takes the form of a drapey silk quilt.  The principles of “Unstitched” are maintained with light hand-stitched joins and no cutting into the final quilt length.   I’m pleased with the final outcome, although I’m not going to spoil the exhibition by showing it just yet!  As anyone who has tried to dress head to toe in black can attest to, no two garments are ever the same, some are more blue, some purple, some green.  In addition I had different fabric weaves such as crepes and satin which reflect light in different ways.  I combined these fabrics though to make the differences in texture and colour a feature.


Above, the left over fabric at the end.  The strip at the top is approx 1.5m.  I used almost all the fabric I had collected for the gown, but I’m undecided as to whether it should all have been used, or whether it’s ok to have a little wastage at the end.  I’m going to keep thinking about this.

Unstitched

Voila, a recent collection of gowns I designed which I titled “Unstitched”

Why Unstitched?

I was influenced by the concept of “rhythms of use” coined by Kate Fletcher to explain that apparel should be designed in a way that is appropriate to its requirements for durability.  By this measure, a conventionally boned, corseted and highly stitched evening garment is overly made for its durability requirements (based on the assumption that it will be worn only once) and so I sought to develop a style that was appropriately decorative and dramatic for its purpose while made with a lightness that lends itself to potential disassembly and recycling after use.


My current design practice is based around two different methodologies of design for sustainability.  The first considers end of life disassembly of the garment through minimal stitching and careful draping of a length of fabric.

The second methodology of sustainability being explored is the upcycling of fabric remnants. This serves to draw attention to the fabric waste that occurs as a byproduct of conventional manufacturing techniques.  The corded embellishments are a decorative way of using these odd shaped and otherwise impractical pieces.

Photography by Michael Parry